Ernest Hemingway – how not to visit Murchison Falls Park
Ernest Hemingway Crashed an Airplane at Murchison Falls in Uganda and is considered Dead by the World.
Ernest Hemingway, one of the most renowned American authors of the 20th century, had a remarkable and transformative experience at Murchison Falls during his extensive adventures in Africa. His profound affection for the continent and a deep-seated passion for safari prompted him to embark on multiple journeys to Africa. Each excursion left an unforgettable imprint on his personal life and his literary output.
During one of these thrilling trips, Hemingway found himself aboard a Cessna 180, a small aircraft ideal for navigating the rugged landscapes of Africa. However, fate took a dramatic turn when the plane crash-landed at Murchison Falls, a stunning natural wonder within the boundaries of Murchison Falls National Park. The park is famous for its spectacular waterfalls and the rich wildlife in the area. This unexpected and harrowing experience was not the conventional way to explore such a breathtaking destination. Still, it significantly altered the course of Hemingway’s life.
In an unfortunate twist, while Hemingway was being rescued by another aircraft after the initial crash, that plane also encountered trouble. During takeoff, it crashed, resulting in serious injuries for Hemingway. This second accident not only compounded the trauma of the first incident but also led to lifelong physical challenges that would affect him profoundly. The pain and suffering he endured became a part of his existence, influencing his perspective and writing for years.
Despite the difficulties and tragedies he faced during what was meant to be a thrilling safari adventure, Hemingway’s affection for Africa remained steadfast and unwavering. His rich and varied experiences on the continent inspired him to create several notable literary works, including “Green Hills of Africa,” a reflective narrative on his travels, “The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber,” a poignant tale about courage and regret, and “The Snows of Kilimanjaro,” which explores themes of mortality and lost potential. Hemingway’s profound connection to Africa is poignantly captured in his words: “All I wanted to do was get back to Africa. We had not left it yet, but when I woke at night, I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.” This longing underscores his love for the landscape and its profound emotional impact on him.
Today, Murchison Falls National Park stands as Uganda’s most visited national park, drawing countless tourists eager to witness the awe-inspiring beauty of the falls and the diverse array of wildlife, including elephants, lions, and numerous bird species, that inhabit the region. Yet, many of these visitors may remain oblivious to the dramatic and life-altering events experienced by one of the most significant literary figures of the 20th century within the park’s boundaries.
Hemingway’s fateful crash at Murchison Falls reminds us of the unpredictability and inherent dangers that can accompany safari adventures. While his experiences were undoubtedly tragic, they also highlight Africa’s enduring allure and mystery, leaving an indelible mark on his life and enriching his literary legacy. His encounters with its beauty and perils helped shape the themes of struggle, adventure, and reflection that permeate much of his work.
Ernest Hemingway Crashes in Airplane at Murchison Falls Park
On January 23, 1954, renowned author Ernest Hemingway and his wife, Mary Welsh Hemingway, set off on a chartered Cessna 180 from Nairobi, Kenya, for a flyover safari to Uganda’s majestic Murchison Falls Park. This adventure was a belated Christmas gift for Mary, chosen thoughtfully by Hemingway, who hoped to share the breathtaking beauty of African landscapes with her. Roy Marsh, a seasoned aviator familiar with the region, expertly piloted the flight.
As the small aircraft glided through the skies, Hemingway and Mary marveled at the stunning sights visible from their windows, including the sprawling Great Rift Valley, the shimmering waters of Lake Victoria, and the expansive Lake Albert. Hemingway’s excitement built as they neared Murchison Falls, often called the world’s most powerful waterfall. He envisioned the experience of flying low over the falls, anticipating a breathtaking view that would inspire both awe and exhilaration.
Tragically, as they approached their destination, disaster struck. The rear of the plane snagged a telephone wire, leading to a sudden and catastrophic loss of control. The aircraft crashed in a brushy area just a short distance from the falls. Fortunately, the aircraft exhibited only minor damage but could not take off again from the rugged terrain.
Miraculously, Hemingway, Mary, and pilot Roy Marsh survived the incident, albeit with non-life-threatening injuries. Yet, they found themselves in an extraordinary situation—an unintended foray as unexpected tourists into the wilds of Murchison Falls Park. Initially filled with anticipation and excitement, their day transformed into an unplanned adventure in the wilderness.
Surrounded by Africa’s vibrant, often intimidating wildlife—including elephants, buffalo, lions, leopards, hippos, and crocodiles—the trio was thrust into a precarious predicament. The crash site was far from any romantic notion of Africa, resembling a scene from a survival reality show instead. The pilot attempted to use the operational radio to issue distress calls. Still, they received no response, leaving them stranded and uncertain.
With limited resources, the group relied on meager supplies that included a few Carlsberg beers, a bottle of Scotch whisky, some apples, and a handful of biscuits—barely sufficient to sustain them for what could be a long and uncomfortable night in the bush. Their surroundings were perilous; to deter wild animals, they made a concerted effort to keep a fire burning throughout the night. Unfortunately, they faced the constant annoyance of tsetse flies during the day and the nighttime onslaught of mosquitoes, which only compounded their discomfort.
As the evening progressed, sleep was likely a rare commodity. The powerful roar of the nearby waterfall mingled with the sounds of the African night—roaring lions, trumpeting elephants, and the snorts of hippos—creating a cacophony that kept them on edge. The combination of physical discomfort and psychological tension made it nearly impossible to find rest.
By 5 p.m. on January 24, news of the missing Cessna was circulating, and there was speculation that the aircraft had landed at a nearby airstrip. The search efforts began to ramp up on January 25, with the British Colonial administration taking swift action to locate the missing trio. Planes were dispatched to aid in the search, and a British Overseas Airways Corporation pilot altered his commercial flight path to assist in the rescue operations. During his aerial search, he spotted the crash site. He commented on Hemingway’s skillful landing as a “neat job.”
In the wake of this revelation, the colonial administration sent out two additional planes to confirm the sighting and guide a ground rescue team to the crash site. Unfortunately, when the rescuers arrived, no survivors were found; they could only hope that Hemingway, Mary, and the pilot had managed to reach the nearby River Nile, located approximately 300 meters from where they had crashed.
As the news of Ernest Hemingway’s presumed death spread across the globe, newspapers proclaimed the tragic loss of the iconic author, his wife, and their pilot. Ironically, Hemingway was one of the few individuals able to read his own obituaries while recuperating from the ordeal at the New Stanley Hotel in Nairobi. It was a surreal moment for the author, who had narrowly escaped a fateful end while the world mourned him.
The Unlikely Rescue by a Sightseeing Boat on the Nile
After the harrowing crash at Murchison Falls, Ernest Hemingway, his wife Mary, and their pilot found themselves stranded in a precarious situation. To escape their predicament, they embarked on a journey down the majestic River Nile, filled with hope for rescue but also tinged with uncertainty. Hemingway recalled a vivid moment during their expedition when they spotted what appeared to be a launch navigating the river:
“During this safari, we had seen mirages when the sun got high, and at the sight of this launch, I thought first that I must check my eyesight. I called Miss Mary and told her that a launch was coming up the river.”
The launch was piloted by Edwiges Abreo, a Goan who had received instructions from British authorities to be on the lookout for Hemingway’s group. Abreo, known for his expertise in local waters, was also escorting a honeymoon couple on a wildlife boat safari to the picturesque falls, which made their encounter even more fortuitous.
As they drew closer, Hemingway felt excitement upon realizing that the vessel they had spotted was the SS Murchison. This was no ordinary boat—it had been used in filming the classic movie “The African Queen,” a cinematic piece he greatly admired. He later penned, “It was a wonderful launch, fairly old-fashioned in lines, and we later found that it was the vessel which had been used in the motion picture called The African Queen, which starred two intrepid characters called Katharine Hepburn, who has my great admiration, and Humphrey Bogart, whom I have never yet seen in real life.”
Captain Abreo greeted Hemingway and his party warmly and promptly informed them that the fee for the journey downriver would be one hundred shillings per person. After settling the payment, they eagerly boarded the SS Murchison, setting off downriver toward Butiaba, a location along Lake Albert where the Nile flows majestically. As they cruised, Hemingway relished the vibrant wildlife that lined the shores, delighting in the sights and sounds of Africa. He savored the experience like tourists today, often raising a Tusker beer to toast their unexpected adventure.
This chance meeting with Captain Abreo and the historic SS Murchison was a crucial turning point for Hemingway and his companions. It brought them closer to safety and became a memorable highlight of their African adventure, forever etched in Hemingway’s mind as a story of resilience and an unexpected twist of fate.
The second Airplane Crash
In Butiaba, a plane was waiting to take Ernest Hemingway and his group to Nairobi for medical care. Unfortunately, their troubles only grew worse. As the plane took off, it hit an anthill and thornbush at the end of the runway, leading to a second crash.
In a remarkable act of bravery, Hemingway forced open the plane door with his body despite having serious injuries. He was the first to get out, followed by his wife and the crew. Just after they escaped, the plane caught fire and was destroyed.
The second crash left Hemingway with severe injuries, including a concussion, a scalp wound, double vision, hearing problems in one ear, a crushed vertebra, and damage to his liver, spleen, and kidney. He also suffered burns. Tragically, they lost their passports, undeveloped film, Hemingway’s three pairs of glasses, all their money, and a $15,000 credit letter due to the fire and explosion.
After the crash, Hemingway and his group traveled by car to Masindi, where they found shelter at the Masindi Hotel, the oldest hotel in Uganda. Interestingly, just three years earlier, famous actors like Katharine Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart had stayed there while filming “The African Queen.”
That night, it is said that the hotel ran low on gin and Scotch, likely because Hemingway and his friends sought comfort in drinks after their harrowing experience.
Hemingway and his party began a long drive to Entebbe Airport the following day. When they arrived, reporters worldwide were waiting to cover the story. Despite his injuries, Hemingway spoke with them and even made jokes.
In Nairobi, he recuperated at the New Stanley Hotel, where he saw his obituary in various international newspapers.
The crashes had a profound impact on Hemingway, contributing to episodes of deep depression that later played a role in his tragic suicide. Yet, amidst the chaos of 1954, he achieved a significant honor: he won the Nobel Prize in Literature for his exceptional storytelling, especially recognized in his latest book, “The Old Man and the Sea.”
At the time, Uganda’s headlines were filled with news about Hemingway’s plane crash at Murchison Falls. Today, visitors can safely experience the beauty of the falls without the risk of accidents, whether by taking a flight or driving in on a safari.
For those interested, we invite you to explore the majestic Murchison Falls on a safe safari adventure without the worry of mishaps.
Ernest Hemingway’s Crashes in Airplane at Murchison Falls were the headlines in Uganda. You can easily visit the most powerful without crashing on a safe fly-In or drive-in SSafari Feel free to contact us.
