Uganda’s Gorilla Tourism Visionary – Walter Baumgärtel
Few know of Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda: Meet Walter Baumgärtel, known as “The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.” His life-changing encounter with Mountain Gorillas ignited a deep commitment to protect these magnificent animals. This journey began at his establishment, the Travellers Rest Hotel, a favorite spot for primate enthusiasts, researchers, and adventurous travelers.
Baumgärtel faced challenges from the British Colonial Wildlife Authorities, who hesitated to promote gorilla tourism. Undeterred, he worked tirelessly to advocate for visitors at his hotel to experience the stunning Mountain Gorillas in the lush forests of Kisoro, located in southwestern Uganda.
Although Baumgärtel’s name may not be widely recognized today, his contributions to gorilla conservation and tourism in Uganda are significant. He played a vital role in the early development of primate tourism, laying the groundwork for the incredible experiences available to visitors today.
This story also honors Reuben Rwazangire, Baumgärtel’s trusted Mutwa tracker and guide. Together, they formed a dedicated team, expertly guiding visitors through the complexities of gorilla encounters.
Explore the early history of Uganda’s gorilla conservation and tourism and celebrate the visionary work of Walter Baumgärtel, who combined gorilla tourism with gorilla conservation.
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda: Here is the inspiring story of Walter Baumgärtel, often referred to as “The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.” Born on December 22, 1902, in Delitzsch, Germany, Walter may not be a widely recognized name, but he played a crucial role in the early development of gorilla conservation and tourism in the beautiful Gorilla Highlands of southwestern Uganda.
Walter began his career as a bookbinder’s apprentice. However, his sense of adventure, ignited by Karl May’s tales, fueled his dreams of exploring distant lands. He longed for the “Sehnsucht nach der Ferne,” a German phrase that translates to a yearning for far-off places.
Driven by wanderlust, Walter traveled extensively through the Mediterranean, East Africa, Sri Lanka, and Malaysia. At 25, after World War I, as Germany struggled to recover, he sought a fresh start. He relocated to Cape Town, South Africa, where he worked as a freelance photographer and sold musical instruments.
During World War II, he served as an air reconnaissance photographer for the British military. Following the war, he enjoyed life in Florence, Italy. A visit to London led to an exciting job opportunity at a hotel near Mount 
Kilimanjaro in Arusha, Tanzania.
In the early 1950s, Walter’s desire for independence brought him back to Africa. By chance, he discovered a partnership opportunity at the Travellers Rest Hotel in Kisoro, Uganda, and became its owner in 1955.
Kisoro is ideally located in southwestern Uganda, near the borders of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is close to the Gorilla Sanctuary (now known as Mgahinga Gorilla Park) and the easily accessible Kayonza Forest (now Bwindi Impenetrable Forest). The town is surrounded by stunning natural beauty, including the Virunga Volcanoes, three of which are in Uganda, the tranquil Lake Mutanda, and the scenic terraced hillsides.
Walter Baumgärtel’s journey from a small German town to a pivotal figure in Ugandan gorilla tourism is a testament to adventure and determination. His legacy inspires nature lovers and travelers alike, and his contributions to mountain gorilla conservation are still deeply felt today.
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda
Walter Baumgärtel’s Traveler’s Rest Hotel – a home away from Home for Dian Fossey
Walter Baumgärtel faced numerous challenges when he set out to establish the Travellers Rest Hotel in Uganda. Still, his determination
and hard work ultimately paid off. The hotel quickly became a beloved destination, known for its warm and welcoming atmosphere and an enticing German-inspired menu that delighted its guests.
The visitors to Travellers Rest were not merely regular tourists; they included renowned primate researchers, conservationists, and scientists. Notable figures such as George Schaller, Bernhard Grzimek, Raymond Dart, and the famous Dian Fossey made the hotel their base when visiting the region.
Dian Fossey, in particular, regarded Travellers Rest as her “second home.” She described it as an oasis for the many scientists who came before her and considered Walter Baumgärtel one of her kindest African friends. Their friendship deepened during Fossey’s six-and-a-half-month study in 1967, leaving a lasting impact on both of them.
For Walter Baumgärtel, running the Travellers Rest Hotel brought some of the happiest moments of his life. He found immense joy in hosting his guests and sharing his passion for the stunning natural surroundings. Walter also had the opportunity to explore the hills and forests, where he encountered the majestic Mountain Gorillas known as the “Gentle Giants of the Forest.”
Walter Baumgärtel’s legacy at the Travellers Rest Hotel reflects his unwavering dedication to hospitality, his deep love for nature, and his commitment to connecting people with the remarkable wildlife of Uganda. His story continues to inspire and captivate those who seek to preserve and celebrate the beauty of the natural world.
Walter Baumgärtel’s Encounters with the Mountain Gorillas
Walter Baumgärtel, while managing the Travellers Rest Hotel, found inspiration for his first book, König in Gorillaland (King in Gorilla Land), published in 1960. This book detailed his adventures with the magnificent Mountain Gorillas in Mgahinga Gorilla Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
His first encounter with these incredible creatures deeply moved him, turning him into a passionate conservationist. Unlike Dian Fossey, who focused mainly on research and protection, Walter believed that Gorilla Tourism could play a vital role in funding conservation efforts.
On his forest expeditions, Walter was accompanied by his trusted guide, Reuben Rwazangire. Reuben was from the Batwa people, a community with extensive knowledge of the ancient forests. Walter felt it would be ideal to have Batwa guides for Gorilla Trekking today. Unfortunately, in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Uganda, Batwa guides are not currently part of the gorilla trekking experience.
The forests were once the ancestral home of the Batwa, who lived in harmony with nature for thousands of years, leaving a minimal ecological footprint. Sadly, they are now considered conservation refugees, having been forcibly evicted from their lands as conservation efforts prioritized wildlife habitats.
Walter Baumgärtel’s deep bond with the gorillas, his partnership with Reuben, and his commitment to sustainable tourism greatly contributed to Gorilla Conservation and the growth of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Ugand
Combining Conservation and Mountain Gorilla Trekking
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Batwa Saying states it best: “A Mutwa (Singular Batwa) loves the forest as much as he loves his own body.”
In the 1960s, mountain gorillas faced serious threats to their survival. Their habitats were shrinking as forests were cleared for farming, and poaching was rampant. Tragically, gorillas were hunted for their body parts, with some being transformed into ashtrays. Additionally, zoos demanded gorillas, making it increasingly difficult for them to survive outside their natural environment.
Dian Fossey and others mistakenly labeled the Batwa people, who once protected the forests, as gorilla hunters. In truth, it was the Bantu ethnic group that caused deforestation by cutting down trees for farming and grazing cattle. The Batwa respected gorillas and never hunted them; they would even release gorillas accidentally caught in traps.
In his book Up Among the Mountain Gorillas, Walter Baumgärtel shares his first encounter with these magnificent creatures. While trekking with his guide, Reuben, they spotted a mother gorilla and her curious baby. This touching moment transformed Walter’s 
perspective; he began to see gorillas as part of his family.
Inspired by this experience, Walter believed that gorilla tourism could help protect these animals. He thought that if tourists paid to see gorillas, the government would have a reason to safeguard them. Initially, the British Colonial Government denied him this opportunity. However, after becoming an honorary Game Warden, he finally received permission, and the concept of gorilla tourism began to take shape.
Walter’s Travellers Rest Hotel became the starting point for modern gorilla tracking safaris. Visitors were thrilled to encounter these gentle giants in their natural habitat. Walter hoped that tourism would generate income and encourage the Ugandan government to prioritize gorilla conservation. Unfortunately, he faced political challenges that hindered his efforts.
Walter encountered increasing difficulties as Uganda transitioned from a British Protectorate to an independent nation. Corruption and political instability affected his hotel and conservation work. Ultimately, he was forced to sell Travellers Rest, a move intended to secure his future. However, this plan collapsed due to financial speculation.
On February 28, 1969, Walter left Africa for good. Over the years, his eyesight deteriorated, but he documented his experiences in *Up Among the Mountain Gorillas,* published in 1977. This book became a bestseller and was translated into several languages. Walter also wrote two radio plays for children.
Today, his book remains a valuable resource for gorilla trekkers, offering insights into the world of mountain gorillas. Walter Baumgärtel impacted places like Mgahinga Gorilla Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and his commitment to conservation continues to inspire many.
Walter Baumgärtel – an influencer to others
Walter Baumgärtel’s influence extended far beyond his time in Uganda. One individual deeply inspired by his work is Praveen Momam, the
owner of Mount Gahinga Lodge. Momam has openly acknowledged that Baumgärtel’s pioneering efforts in southwest Uganda during the 1960s had a significant personal impact on him.
Baumgärtel was a true trailblazer in the fields of gorilla conservation and gorilla tourism. He was deeply concerned about the survival of mountain gorillas and recognized the urgent threats they faced. Even after leaving Uganda, Baumgärtel maintained correspondence about his time in Africa and his ongoing passion for gorilla conservation and tourism.
Sadly, Walter Baumgärtel passed away on November 8, 1997, in a German aged care facility. His death marked the loss of one of the earliest champions of mountain gorillas. Although only a few in Uganda may still remember him, his legacy endures through the captivating accounts he shared in his book, “Up Among the Mountain Gorillas.”
Notably, no statues or plaques have been dedicated to Walter Baumgärtel, who is often referred to as the father of gorilla tourism in Uganda. Nevertheless, along with his trusted guide, Reuben Rwazangire, he planted the seeds for conservation and tourism efforts in the country, leaving an indelible mark on preserving these magnificent creatures.
Reuben Rwazangire: The Unsung Hero of Uganda’s Gorilla Tourism
Reuben Rwazangire, a skilled Mutwa tracker, played a pivotal role alongside Walter Baumgärtel in establishing the early foundations of gorilla tourism in Uganda. As Baumgärtel’s trusted guide, Rwazangire’s deep understanding of the local landscape and the behavior of Mountain Gorillas proved invaluable in ensuring memorable and safe encounters for visitors at Baumgärtel’s Travellers Rest Hotel.
Rwazangire’s expertise as a tracker enabled him to skillfully navigate the dense forests and hills around Kisoro, locating the elusive Mountain Gorillas through his keen observation of telltale signs such as nests, footprints, and feeding areas. This knowledge, combined with Baumgärtel’s unwavering advocacy and hospitality, transformed the Travellers Rest Hotel into a premier destination for primate enthusiasts and adventure seekers eager to witness the magnificent gorillas in their natural habitat.
The collaborative partnership between Rwazangire and Baumgärtel played a crucial role in shaping the early days of gorilla tourism in Uganda. Their tireless efforts paved the way for the remarkable gorilla trekking experiences that visitors can enjoy in the region today. Rwazangire’s role as Baumgärtel’s trusted guide and tracker deserves recognition as an essential component of Uganda’s rich gorilla conservation and tourism history, ensuring that the contributions of this unsung hero are not forgotten.
We suggest that, like Walter Baumgärtel, the Uganda Wildlife Authority consider using the Batwa people as rangers, trackers, and guides for trekking to the mountain gorillas in Uganda.
