Uganda’s Gorilla Tourism Visionary – Walter Baumgärtel
Few know of Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda: Meet Walter Baumgärtel, the man who earned the title of “The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.” This unsung hero’s life-changing encounter with Mountain Gorillas ignited his passion to protect these majestic creatures. And it all started at his very own establishment, the Travellers Rest Hotel, a popular destination for primate enthusiasts, gorilla researchers, and adventurous tourists.
Baumgärtel’s determination to share the wonders of Mountain Gorillas with the world was met with resistance from the British Colonial Wildlife Authorities. Undeterred, he persisted, tirelessly advocating for the opportunity to allow visitors to his hotel to witness the beauty of the Mountain Gorillas in the lush forests and hills surrounding Kisoro in Southwest Uganda.
Walter Baumgärtel’s name may not be widely known today, but his impact on Uganda’s Gorilla Conservation and Gorilla Tourism is immeasurable. He played a pivotal role in shaping the early days of primate tourism in Uganda, paving the way for the remarkable experiences that visitors can now enjoy.
This narrative also highlights Reuben Rwazangire, Baumgärtel’s trusted Mutwa tracker and guide. Together, they formed an inseparable team, working hand in hand to navigate the intricacies of gorilla encounters and provide visitors with unforgettable experiences.
Join us as we delve into the rich history of Uganda’s Gorilla Conservation and Gorilla Tourism, paying homage to the visionary pioneer Walter Baumgärtel.
Walter Baumgärtel–The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda
Let’s dive into the remarkable story of Walter Baumgärtel – “The Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.” Born on December 22, 1902, in Delitzch, Germany, Walter’s name may not be found on Wikipedia’s list of famous Mountain Gorilla conservationists and tourism pioneers. Still, he deserves a spot on our list for his influential role in early Gorilla Conservation and Tourism in the Gorilla Highlands of Southwest Uganda.
Growing up in Delitzch, Germany, Walter began his journey as a bookbinder apprentice. However, his dreams extended far beyond the confines of his small town and the borders of Germany. Influenced by thrilling adventure novels, perhaps like those written by Karl May, he yearned to explore the world and experience the “Sehnsucht nach der Ferne” – the longing for distant places – that Germans often speak of.
Infected with an insatiable wanderlust, Walter continued his travels, venturing through lands along the Mediterranean Sea, East Africa, and onward to Sri Lanka and Malaysia. After the end of World War I in 1927, 
Germany was a country struggling with despair. The aftermath of war, foreign occupation, and internal political upheaval left a sense of lack and hopelessness. It’s no wonder that at 25, Walter sought new horizons, eventually finding himself in Cape Town, South Africa, where he worked as a freelance photographer, selling photographs and musical instruments.
During World War II, he served as an air reconnaissance photographer in the British Military. After the war, he found solace and enjoyment in the charming town of Florence, Italy. During a visit to London, England, Walter discovered an enticing job opportunity at a hotel near Mount Kilimanjaro in Arusha, Tanzania.
In the early 1950s, Walter returned to Africa, driven by his desire for independence and not wanting to work as an employee for someone else. As fate would have it, he stumbled upon a partnership opportunity at the Travellers Rest Hotel in Kisoro, Uganda. In 1955, he took over the hotel, becoming its sole proprietor.
Situated in Southwest Uganda near the borders of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, Kisoro was an ideal location, just a short drive away from the Gorilla Sanctuary, now known as Mgahinga Gorilla Park. Similarly, the nearby Kayonza Forest, now Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, was easily accessible. The town of Kisoro, both then and now, is surrounded by breathtaking natural wonders, including the Virunga Volcanoes – three of which lie within Uganda – the serene Lake Mutanda and the picturesque terraced hillsides that grace the town.
Walter Baumgärtel’s journey from a small German town to becoming a key figure in Gorilla Tourism in Uganda is a testament to his adventurous spirit and unwavering determination. His legacy lives on, and his contributions to the conservation and appreciation of Mountain Gorillas continue to inspire generations of nature enthusiasts and travelers alike.
Walter Baumgärtel’s Traveler’s Rest Hotel – a home away from Home for Dian Fossey
Walter Baumgärtel faced numerous challenges in establishing Travellers Rest Hotel, but his determination paid
off. The hotel quickly became a popular destination, renowned for its welcoming atmosphere and a delightful German-style menu that pleased the taste buds of its guests.
The visitors who flocked to Travellers Rest Hotel were not just casual tourists but also esteemed primate researchers, conservationists, and scientists. It became a favored base for notable figures such as George Schaller, Bernhard Grzimek, Raymond Dart, and the renowned Dian Fossey.
Dian Fossey considered Walter Baumgärtel’s hotel her “second home.” She described it as an oasis for many scientists who came before her, and she thought Walter to be one of the kindest and most endearing friends she had made in Africa. Their bond grew during her six-and-a-half-month study in 1967, and she remembered their time together.
For Walter Baumgärtel, his tenure at Travellers Rest Hotel was filled with some of his life’s best and most enjoyable moments. Not only did he have the pleasure of hosting and connecting with his guests, but he also ventured into the captivating hills and forests, where he had extraordinary encounters with the Gentle Giants of the Forest—the Mountain Gorillas.
Walter Baumgärtel’s time at Travellers Rest Hotel was a testament to his passion for hospitality, his love for nature, and his commitment to fostering connections between humans and the remarkable wildlife of Uganda.
Walter Baumgärtel’s Encounters with the Mountain Gorillas
While managing Travellers Rest Hotel, Walter Baumgärtel found inspiration to write his first book, “König in Gorillaland” (King in Gorilla Land), published in 1960. This book chronicled his experiences and adventures in the enchanting world of the Mountain Gorillas residing in Mgahinga Gorilla Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
Walter’s initial encounter with these magnificent creatures profoundly impacted him, transforming him into a passionate conservationist. Unlike Dian Fossey, who focused primarily on research and protection, Walter strongly believed that Gorilla Tourism could significantly fund Gorilla Conservation efforts.
During his expeditions into the forests, Walter was accompanied by his trusted guide and tracker, Reuben Rwazangire. Reuben belonged to the Batwa people, a hunter-gatherer community with an extensive knowledge of the ancient forests. Walter believed it would be ideal if Batwa guides were available for Gorilla Trekking even today. However, it’s important to note that in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Uganda, Batwa guides are currently not part of the gorilla trekking experience.
The forests served as the ancestral home of the Batwa people, who had lived in harmony with nature for thousands of years, leaving behind only a minimal ecological footprint. Sadly, today, they are considered conservation refugees, forcibly evicted from their lands as conservation efforts have prioritized the preservation of wildlife habitats.
Walter Baumgärtel’s deep connection with the gorillas, his partnership with Reuben Rwazangire, and his recognition of the importance of sustainable tourism all contributed to his significant contributions to Gorilla Conservation and the development of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.
Combining Conservation and Mountain Gorilla Trekking
A Batwa Saying states it best: “A Mutwa (Singular Batwa) loves the forest as much as he loves his own body.”
Back in the 1960s, the gorilla population was in serious trouble. Their habitats were shrinking as humans cleared forests for farming, and poaching was rampant. Gorillas were even being hunted for their body parts, with gorilla hands being turned into ashtrays. The demand for gorillas from zoos posed another threat, as mountain gorillas struggled to survive outside their natural environment.
Unfortunately, the Batwa people, who were once the forest’s protectors, were stigmatized as gorilla killers by Dian Fossey and others. However, it was the Bantu ethnic group that contributed to deforestation by cutting down trees for cultivation and grazing their cattle. The Batwa deeply respected gorillas and did not consume them as food. They would release any gorillas that accidentally got trapped in bushmeat traps.
In his book “Up Among the Mountain Gorillas,” Walter Baumgärtel recounted his first encounter with gorillas. Together with his guide Reuben, they trekked up the mountain when suddenly a gorilla appeared and vanished. Shortly after, a mother gorilla emerged with her curious toddler. The child stopped to inspect the two visitors while the mother returned and gently guided her child back into the forest to join the father. This heartwarming family scene changed Walter’s perspective on gorillas—they were no longer just animals to him but felt like part of his family.
This encounter inspired Walter to explore ways to protect mountain gorillas through tourism. He believed that the government would be motivated to safeguard these magnificent creatures if tourists visited and paid to see gorillas. However, initially, the British Colonial Government denied him the privilege. It wasn’t until later, when he became an honorary Game Warden and received permission from the Colonial Wildlife Department, that gorilla tourism started to take its baby steps.
Walter’s Travellers Rest Hotel became a starting point for modern gorilla tracking safaris. Visitors were amazed by their incredible encounters with these gentle giants of the rainforest. Walter hoped that promoting tourism would bring in visitors and income and encourage the Ugandan government to prioritize the protection of mountain gorillas and their habitat. Unfortunately, he faced political and power struggles that hindered his conservation efforts.
In the 1960s, as Uganda transitioned from a British Protectorate to an independent nation, Walter faced increasing difficulties. Corrupt officials harassed him and his hotel, and political instability affected his business and his passion for gorilla conservation. Eventually, he was forced to sell Travellers Rest Hotel, which was meant to secure his future, but that plan fell apart due to financial speculation by others.
On February 28, 1969, Walter Baumgärtel left Africa for good. His eyesight, which had already started deteriorating, completely faded in the following years. He chronicled his experiences in the book “Up among the Mountain Gorillas,” published in 1977, which became a bestseller and was translated into several languages. Walter also wrote two radio plays for children.
Even today, his book serves as an excellent guide for gorilla trekkers, providing valuable insights into the world of mountain gorillas. Walter Baumgärtel left his mark on the places the gorillas call home, such as Mgahinga Gorilla Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and his dedication to conservation continues to inspire others.
Walter Baumgärtel – an influencer to others
Walter Baumgärtel’s influence extended beyond his time in Uganda. One individual who was inspired by his work is
Praveen Momam, the owner of Mount Gahinga Lodge. Momam has openly acknowledged that Baumgärtel’s endeavors in southwest Uganda during the 1960s personally impacted him.
Baumgärtel was a true pioneer in Gorilla Conservation and Gorilla Tourism. He was deeply concerned for mountain gorillas’ survival and understood the imminent threats they faced. Even after leaving Uganda, Baumgärtel maintained correspondence related to his time in Africa and Gorilla Conservation and Tourism.
Sadly, Walter Baumgärtel passed away on November 8, 1997, in a German aged care facility. His death marked the loss of one of the earliest protectors of the Mountain Gorillas. Although only a few in Uganda may remember him, his legacy lives on through the enriching accounts he shared in his book, “Up Among the Mountain Gorillas.”
Notably, no statues or plaques are dedicated to Walter Baumgärtel, the father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda. Nevertheless, along with his guide, Reuben Rwazangire, he planted the seeds for Gorilla Conservation and Tourism in the country, leaving a lasting impact on preserving these magnificent creatures.
