Walter Baumgartel – Father of Gorilla Tourism in Uganda

Posted by on July 22, 2017

Uganda’s Gorilla Tourism Visionay Walter Baumgärtel

Walter Baumgärtel – Father of  Gorilla Tourism in Uganda as we know it today


His first encounter with Mountain Gorillas  was instrumental in his determination to protect the Mountain Gorillas – Walter Baumgärtel – Father of  Gorilla Tourism in Uganda was instrumental in convincing the British Colonial Government to allow visitors to see the Mountain Gorillas in the Hills surrounding in those days, the small, dusty town of Kisoro where he was the owner of Kisoro’s finest at that time – the Travellers Rest Hotel.


Walter Baumgärtel never fit the mold – born in Delitzsch Germany, 22nd of December 1892  He grew like most other German children became a bookbinder apprentice – but he had a thirst for a larger world than the one he was in.  Within him was a thirst to discover the lands he read about in his youth and he ventured into the countries along the Mediterranean Sea, then on to East Africa, Sri Lanka and Malaysia.

South Africa became his country for many years, there he owned a shop that sold musical instruments and photographs and earned extra money by being a free-lance photographer.

Though he was German – he was also a man of conscience and was with the British Military doing reconnaissance photography during World War II.  After the war he spent some in Florence, Italy.  While visiting London he read an advert  for a job at a Hotel in Arusha, Tanzania – it did not work out and once again he became restless and started to look for greener pastures.

He wound up in Kisoro at the Travellers Rest Hotel where he had a partner who always had grandiose plans such as a large American Vehicle to pick up Tourists in Kampala (the vehicle was more down than running), an airstrip where planes were going to land and bring people in, however the area selected was simply too tough, lava rock and in the end the project was abandoned.  The partner and his spouse also took the best rooms in the hotel leaving bad ones for the guests.  At the end of the day Walter Baumgärtel bought his partner out and became the sole proprietor of Travellers Rest Hotel.

It became a place that those involved in the Gorilla Research used as their base of operation or like Dian Fossey  who called Travellers Rest her second home.  A place where she would spend Rest & Recuperation time and do her paperwork.  She loved the place and respected Walter Baumgärtel.

Dian Fossey’s Words “His Travellers Rest Hotel had been an oasis to many scientists preceding me … I had met Walter on my first safari in 1963, and during the six-and-a-half-month study in 1967 had grown to think of him as one of the kindest and most endearing friends I had made in Africa.”

Many Mountain Gorilla Researches stayed at the Travellers Rest Hotel – such as – George Schaller, Bernhard Grzimek, Raymond Dart and Dian Fossey, and many others.

Besides being a Hotelier-Walter Baumgärtel took an interest in the Mountain Gorillas found in the foothills of the Virunga’s and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.  His first encounter transformed him and he became dedicated to the conservation of Mountain Gorillas.

By that time in the Kisoro area – Mountain Gorillas were disappearing due the encroachment of people and their clearing of the forests for farmland. In those days there was also some permitted hunting allowed by the British who oversaw the protectorate of Uganda and also poaching.  The paws of gorilla’s were made into ashtrays and other silly things that thank goodness have seized today.  Finally – Mountain Gorillas were being brought into zoos in the West where all died – no Mountain Gorilla has ever survived captivity.  All in all the Mountain Gorilla population was on the decrease.

Walter Baumgärtel, in his book “Up Among the Mountain Gorillas”, he recounts as he went with his guide Ruben to his first gorilla encounter: They walked a path up the mountain, out of the woods next to them a gorilla came out and disappeared in the woods opposite. He was followed by a gorilla mother with a child. The child was curious, like all children, stopping to inspect the two people. The mother came back immediately and took her child by the hand, “gave him a pat on it back and pulled him into the forest after the dad”. Baumgärtel, “This family scene, so touching human, changed my behavior to the gorillas of reason: they were not animals for me, but family.”

That first encounter with Mountain Gorillas changed Walter Baumgärtel forever – he began to think of ways to protect the Mountain Gorillas through tourism.  It was his thought that if tourists came and paid hard cash, the government would step in and start to protect the Mountain Gorillas.  At first the British Colonial Government denied him that privilege, but later relented and gorilla tourism as we know it today was in its infancy.

Thus Walter Baumgärtel – Father of  Gorilla Tourism in Uganda as we know it today and beyond, never realizing in those days that Gorilla Conservation and Gorilla Tourism go hands in hand.

Guests from his hotel were taken up into the mountains for an meeting with the mountain gorillas, the modern Gorilla tracking safari was taking place  and visitors were amazed by what they found and encountered – the gentle giants of the rainforest.

In 1962 Uganda gained independence and Walter Baumgärtel felt the hostile winds of change to his desires and wishes regarding Mountain Gorillas.

He returned to his mother country of Germany where he lived for many years in homes for the aged – his eyesight that had been a problem in Uganda – gave out totally – he died blind and poor in 1997, but never forgot his beloved Mountain Gorillas of Uganda.

His book “Up among the Mountain Gorillas is most interesting and would be a great primer about Mountain Gorillas before coming to Uganda.  Walter Baumgärtel left his marks in the  places that Mountains the Gorillas call home – his work continues….Walter Baumgartel – Father of  Gorilla Tourism in Uganda.